New York City Walking Tours and Other Sybarite Chatter

Sybarites love sensory experiences. They love the pleasure of sensory overload. This site is dedicated to the sybarite whose attention has turned to the delights of New York City. Find a NYC introduction and New York City walking tours here - designed for the sybarite in all of us.

Sunday, January 01, 2006

Welcome to New York City ... the Big Apple


Radio City #1, originally uploaded by Kyrion.


Welcome to New York.

You might be anxious. You might be excited.

Whatever you might be, you probably aren’t bored.

If you are anxious, relax. New York City is safe and fun.

If you are excited, you are right to be. This is the most exciting city in the world – believe me, I've spent my life checking them out.

I suspect you will be even more excited when you get on the plane to return home. With a bit of luck, your experience checking out New York will set the stage for a life-long relationship with the city – to which you can return again and again. And it’s a pretty safe bet – when you do, you will never be bored.

So what’s all the fuss about? Let’s start by saying what New York is NOT.

Well, it’s not about physical beauty. This city has its beautiful moments, but it isn’t a stunner.

It’s not about history. New York has a proud, rich history, but you probably won’t see much this week.

It’s not about star-gazing. New York has more celebrities packed onto this small island than any other place in the world. I doubt you will see one.

It’s not about Hollywood’s version of New York –gangs, crime, drugs, muggings. New York has all of these things. But it actually has fewer of them than most major cities! It is shockingly safe.

So what’s all the fuss about? It is this: New York is an experience. The city overflows with a lusty, full-bodied version of life. This week, if you look for it, you will find a million instances of this deep, rich, life-affirming experience. You can’t find it by looking out of a taxicab window, nor do the tour bus drivers announce it as you pass by. It yields to those who are willing to walk. It yields to those who are willing to employ all of their senses. It yields to those who are patient.

What can I do here? You can hear, smell, taste, feel, and see – all in bursts which delight, confound, confuse and soar.Every reader will find their own way – New York demands that you do. But maybe this will get you started – asking the right questions, using the right resources, and setting you on paths you can make your own.

Enjoy!

New York Top 10 Suggestions

Below are my New York Top 10. They are my suggestions about how to best experience New York – by being street-smart, by being map-savvy, by being subway and bus savvy, by stopping, by looking up frequently, by grazing, by worshipping water, by being mindful of destinations, by appreciating neighborhoods, by being open to serendipity, and – most of all – by walking!

Be Street-Smart
If you don’t know New York, relax but be street-smart. The joy is – this city is safe BUT it is a big city. As a newcomer to New York, be sure to:• Obey walk signs – just because a New Yorker jaywalks does NOT mean you should.
• Keep your wallets in your pocket on the street and keep handbags latched and criss-crossed with an over-the-shoulder strap. Keep pockets buttoned.
• Nervous about something on the street? Cross the street. Or step into a store. Wait until you feel safe.
• Don’t smile at strangers. Don’t give money to beggars. Mind your own business and simply say “No” if confronted.
• Travel in pairs before 10, and in quads after 10. Don’t walk or use a subway after midnight. Take a cab.
• There is safety in numbers. Stay where people are. No lonely streets.• Stay under 96th street. Harlem is wonderful, above 96th Street, but you need a guide.
• New York Police, Bus Drivers, and Subway attendants are, in general, awesome. Use them!

Be Map-Savvy
There are hundreds of good maps. Use the one that you love. My personal favorite is free – the New York City Manhattan Bus Map. Get it at the Grand Central Information Center. Since it is free, mark it up! Circle things! Use it and abuse it to your heart’s content.

One note – be street-smart and don’t read a map in the street. You are just asking for trouble. Duck into Starbucks or a hotel lobby and study the map to your heart’s content.

Be Subway and Bus-savvy
Every New Yorker knows – subways are cheap and fast. Cabs are expensive and slow. The NY Bus Map has subways on it. Learn how to read the map. There are seven lines that are especially useful– the 4 and 5 express (rushes you up and down the eastside)- the 6 local (stops at every stop on the eastside)- the 2 and 3 express (rushes you up and down the westside)- the 1 and 9 local (stops at every stop on the westside)Bowling Green, Wall Street, Brooklyn Bridge, 14th Street, Grand Central, 59th Street, and 86th Street are eastside express stops.Chambers, 14th Street, 34th Street, Times Square (42nd Street), 72nd Street, and 96th Street are westside express stops.“Downtown” takes you South – to the 1st street and even lower, to the bottom of Manhattan at Bowling Green.“Uptown” takes you to 96th Street (westside) or 86th street (eastside).

Stop
Stop frequently. Don’t just window shop – go in the stores and browse. Stop at many of the sidewalk cafes and people-watch. Stop in Bryant Park, near Grand Central, to watch the flood of people enjoying a summer day. Stop in Union Square, to enjoy the farmer’s market. Stopping frequently is part of the New York experience.

Look Up
New York is a vertical city. Take care to frequently look up. Above eye level are New York’s skyscapers, its penthouses, its upper floors where people work and live.

Graze
If this is your first trip, I suggest – no big meals. Instead I suggest – grazing at five or ten different places, with small bites, and fast service. There is SO much to see and do and experience. A two hour lunch will slow you down. Grazing suggestions: street vendors, particularly those with multiple vendors side-by-side (the best are in the high traffic areas, such as 45th street between Park and Vanderbilt; dim sum in Chinatown; the steam table at any heavily-trafficked NY deli; a bakery; a chocalatier; a Belgium fries shop; the Soup Nazi (from Seinfeld); any Irish Pub; any street fair or farmer’s market).

Worship Water
Too many tourists miss the water – big mistake. New York is surrounded by spectacular water – water to be worshipped. On the East Side is the East River – my favorite way to experience the East River is from Gracie Park, in the Upper East Side, and the South Street Seaport, downtown. On the West Side is the famous Hudson River. You can’t go wrong anywhere, but Battery City Park downtown is particularly spectacular. In Central Park are ponds and lakes galore. My favorite is the sailboat lake, but they are all great.

Be mindful of destinations
First-time visitors can sometimes be frustrated by walking blocks without seeing anything in particular. The problem is – New Yorkers think in terms of destinations. For example, you might walk right by Zabar’s as you stroll Broadway on the upper west side at 80th Street. A typical Westsider would make Zabar’s their destination – a fabulous shopping experience. As you plot out your walk, ask about the great destinations along the walk, and take advantage of being close by.

Appreciate neighborhoods
New Yorkers think of their neighborhood as their village. Think like they do, and try to be aware of which neighborhood you are visiting. For example, Chelsea is a neighborhood. So is the “Far West Village.” Or Soho. Or Tribeca. Or Murray Hill. Or Chinatown. Or Little Italy. Each neighborhood is unique – there is no other place quite like it on earth. You will rarely see chain stores – neighborhood butchers, bakers, fish mongers, stationers are usually local merchants with quirky offerings, and long loval histories. (With the notable exception of Starbucks.)

Be open to serendipity
Being goal-directed is good, especially in a massive city like New York. But don’t go overboard. You might set out for Soho, and find that Nolita (the adjacent neighborhood) has a great street fair – I suggest you be prepared to adjust plans based on the great things you discover. New York is full of surprises, and part of the fun of the city is adjusting to these surprises.

Walk!
Stephen Wright said "Everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time." And New York is. Bring good walking shoes and be prepared to walk a lot. You simply cannot experience New York from a moving vehicle. There is way, way too much micro-detail.

NYC Walking Tour - Soho Nolita Lower East Side


Soho, originally uploaded by Cindy T.

South of Houston, West of Broadway
1 hour
Easy, Few Cars, Little traffic
Start at: Spring Street subway of 6 line

Soho


Take the 6 train to Spring Street. Walk west on Spring to Broadway(three short blocks – you will pass famous Balthazar’s, where you should stop and enjoy. Continue on Spring to West Broadway, and turn right (north). Stroll up West Broadway one block to Prince,and go right again. Explore side streets Mercer and Wooster. Return to Spring Street Station.

Nolita


Continue on Spring to Elizabeth and turn left. Go one block to spring and turn left again. Return to Lafayette, and turn left again, back to Spring Street station.

Lower East Side

If the spirit moves continue to the Lower East side. To do this, continue on Spring (see Nolita above) past Elizabeth, to the bowery. Take a left and continue to Houston (short walk). Turn right on East Houston. Walk to Katz's, the world-famous pastrami sandwich haven. See a picture of Katz's at: http://nydestinations.blogspot.com/2006/01/katzs-delicatessen.html

From Katz's, find Ludlow Street, and turn right (South). Stanton and Ludlow is more-or-less the center of the Lower East Side. Explore to your heart's content. You will find miracles everywhere, including Orchard Street, which has everything from underwear to sushi.

NYC Walking Tour - Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue

1 ½-2 hours
High-end Shopping and Tourist spots
Easy, Safe. But involves lots of busy street crossings.
Start at: Grand Central Station, 4, 5, or 6 lines
End at: 79th Street Station: 6 line

From Grand Central, walk west past Vanderbilt, Madison, and to Fifth. Stroll up fifth to Saks Fifth Avenue, at 49th and Fifth (east side of Street). Across the street is Rockefeller Center, where the Today Show is filmed. Stop there at Dean and Deluca for coffee.

From there, continue up fifth to 60th Street, enjoying all the high-end stores along the way. At the Plaza Hotel and 60th Street, take a right turn to Madison, where you can continue north to 79th street. Catch Barney’s – the famous New York clothing store, at 63rd and Madison. Walk east to 69th to Lexington walk north to 79th Street, enjoying the naighborhood boutique stores along to way. Catch the 6th train downtown to return to Grand Central.

NYC Walking Tour - Union Square and University


Union Square 3, originally uploaded by NYC Comets.

Getting there: take the 4, 5, or 6 from Grand Central.

Start at the Barnes and Noble at the nouthern tip of Union Square. Explore in any direction that suits, including just hanging out in the square, which is great.

Eat at Zen Palate or Bluewater Grill or Union Square Cafe, all either on the square or within a block.

Make your way south to University, which starts at the SW corner of the square.

Stroll university to 8th street, and go right, to Fifth Avenue. From Fifth, walk south (left), and look for the beautiful mews houses on your left. Feel free to walk through and then return to Fifth.

The tour ends at Washington Square Park, where Fifth Avenue dead ends.

Central Greenwich Village is just beyond, past 4th Street at Bleeker.

NYC Subjects - Restaurants


warm, originally uploaded by dickuhne.

Obviously there is no food type, no food fantasy, no food category that is out of your reach in NYC. I like Citysearch and the Village Voice for my restaurant tips.

NYC Walking Tour - Times Square


Times Square, New Years Eve, originally uploaded by Lance McCord.

To get there: From Grand Central, take the shuttle. The 1,2,3,9,N,R,C,E and W trains all stop there.

Tour time; one half hour (depending on stops).

Hopefully, you will find a way to do this walk at night, when Times Square sparkles. Start your walk at 42nd street and Broadway avenue, where you exit the subway. Walk north on Broadway to PIXS, the discount theater ticket outlet, in the center of Time Square. You may want to but theater tickets here - just stand in line. Best time to buy - 3 p.m.

Continue from there up Broadway, to Columbus Circle at 60th Street. Check out the new Time Warner Building at Columbus Circle (especially Whole Foods in the basement).

Return from Columbus Circle to 44th Street on 8th Avenue. Turn left on 44th, and return past the theaters to Broadway.

There is plenty to see and do and eat. Make sure you don't miss Virgin Records and Toys R Us.

NYC Walking Tour - Central Park North

To get there: take the 6 to 96 street, and walk west to Fifth avenue. Walk north on 5th (noting museums and Mt Sinai Hospital as you go).

Central Park is huge, and needs to be consumed one bite at a time. Each part is an environment onto itself. I personally love Central Park North, from E. 103 street to E. 110 street on the Fifth Avenue side. See the Conservation Garden (with its formal ailees and fountains), and then the magnificent Harlem Meer, a pond, which is a great place to stroll in the summer. Bathrooms can be found on the 110 street side of the lake, in the Dana Discovery Center (which is itself interesting and may well have activities for kids).

NYC Walking Tour - Central Park Middle


NY sunrise over central park, originally uploaded by inajeep.

To get there: take the 6 to E. 69 street, and walk west to Fifth Avenue. Enter the Park there.


Central Park is huge, and needs to be consumed one bite at a time. Each part is an environment onto itself. You will never be sorry to have a bicycle in Central Park.

One good place to enter is - in the middle of the park, around 73rd street. From here you can see a great deal without wearing yourself out.

If it were me, I would start at the castle, and then stroll the 200 yards back to the lake. I would hang out with the hoards of people and hot dog vendors on the plaza by the lake, and then I would stroll down the shakespeare statues (moving south) until I hit the pond where the miniature sailboats can be found (near Fifth Avenue).

The restaurant there has music on busy weekends. A nice place to stop.

Saturday, December 31, 2005

NYC Walking Tour - Fifth Avenue and Madison Avenue

1 ½-2 hours
High-end Shopping and Tourist spots
Easy, Safe. But involves lots of busy street crossings.
Start at: Grand Central Station, 4, 5, or 6 lines
End at: 79th Street Station: 6 line

From Grand Central, walk west past Vanderbilt, Madison, and to Fifth. Stroll up fifth to Saks Fifth Avenue, at 49th and Fifth (east side of Street). Across the street is Rockefeller Center, where the Today Show is filmed. Stop there at Dean and Deluca for coffee.

From there, continue up fifth to 60th Street, enjoying all the high-end stores along the way. At the Plaza Hotel and 60th Street, take a right turn to Madison, where you can continue north to 79th street. Catch Barney’s – the famous New York clothing store, at 63rd and Madison. Walk east to 69th to Lexington walk north to 79th Street, enjoying the naighborhood boutique stores along to way. Catch the 6th train downtown to return to Grand Central.

NYC Walking Tour - Central Park South

South Central Park and the new Time Warner Complex
1 hour
Central Park and Shopping Delights
Easy, Few Cars, Little traffic
Start at: 59th Street eastside subway of 4, 5, or 6 lines
Take the 4, 5, or 6 to 59th Street and Lexington – exit at the SE corner of Lexington.

Travel east on 59th past Park, Madison, and FifthAvenues. To the entrance to Central Park at 60th and Fifth Avenue. Note the famous Plaza Hotel to your left– now turned into condos (horrible). Enter the park directly ahead of you, on fifth avenue, at the lake. Sit on the south side of the lake, and simply enjoy the southernmost edge of Central Park. Feel free to walk around the lake, and make sure you look for the ice-skaters (you will see them from the bridge) if it is the season.

Explore inside the Park, keeping an eye out for 59th Street. You will end up at 59th Street and 7th avenue – called “Columbus Circle”. When you get there, look up – the two huge towers are the new Time Warner complex. I suggest you enter from either 61st or directly across from the traffic circle. Go to Whole Foods in the basement for coffee, or go to the second and third floors for shopping.

NYC Walking Tour - Chinatown and Little Italy

Chinatown, Little Italy, Nolita
1 hour
Ethnic Delights, Hectic
Lots of crowds – fun for most, but a bit daunting.
Start at: Canal Street subway of 6 lines

Walk east on Canal to Elizabeth Street. Take a right (south). Continue one block and take a second right, and then an immediate third right on Mott. Conttinue north on Mott, across Canal, Grand, and Spring – to Prince. At Prince, go left. Ar Broadway, go right and contnune one block to the Houston Streeet subway.

NYC Walking Tour - Greenwich Village

Low-scale New York – a true neighborhood, made famous by Bob Dylan.
The western half of Greenwich Village, along Bleeker Street
1 hour
Easy, Few Cars, Little traffic
Start at: Christopher Street station of the 1 or 9 line.

Go west on Christopher one block to Bleeker, and take a right. Walk to Eight Avenue on one side of Bleeker, and return on the other side. Continue on Bleeker across 7th avenue, 6th avenue, and take a left on MacDougal. Continue past NYU Law to Washington Square Park. Walkdiagonally though the Park to 8th Street and follow 8th east to University. Take a left (north)and stroll to 14th Street/Union Square.

NYC Walking Tour - Soho

South of Houston, West of Broadway
1 hour
Easy, Few Cars, little traffic
Start at: Spring Street subway of 6 line

Take the 6 train to Spring Street. Walk west on Spring to Broadway(three short blocks – you will pass famous Balthazar’s. Continue on Spring to West Broadway, and turn right (north). Stroll up West Broadway one block to Prince,and go right again. Explore side streets Mercer and Wooster. Return to Spring or Houston Street Stations.

NYC Walking Tour - Hudson River

Harbourside/Hudson Rivers Views through Battery Park/Battery City Park/Tribeca
1 ½-2 hours
Highlights:
Spectacular Water and Ground Zero ViewsEasy, No Cars, No Traffic
Start at: Bowling Green Station, 4 or 5 lines. End at: Chambers Street Station: 1,2,3 lines
From Grand Central, take the 4 or 5 subway to Bowling Green. You will see water (or ask). Walk to the park on the water – that is Battery Park. Note the Staten Island ferry and historic monuments, including a castle.

Looking out at the water, walk to the right. Stay on the water – you will walk around a few building.

You will enter Wagner Park, and then Battery City Park. Stroll along the promenade until you come to a small harbour with beautiful boats. Here, stop in the food court for a snack, or at an outside café for a drink. Go into the World Financial Center atrium, and ascend to the top of the grand staircase for the best view of Ground Zero. Check out a photo here: http://nydestinations.blogspot.com/2006/01/world-financial-center-winter-gardens.html

Continue along the water, past the park, until you arrive at the trapeze school. Cross West Avenue here, heading away from the water, and walk to Greenwich Avenue, which runs parallel to the water. This is famous Tribeca – enjoy exploring Tribeca, and feel free to stop at a great deli - Mazzoli's – which is on Greenwich Avenue– for lunch or a snack. There are places to sit and a great ambiance to enjoy/relax. After, explore Tribeca and find your way to the Chambers Street Subway station.